Crystal River where the manatees play!

Trip Day:	257	Latitude:	28°53.65' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	38	Longitude:	082°35.87'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,654	Location:	Crystal River – Pete’s Pier

Moonrise at Atsena Otie Key was quite nice.  About ten o’clock Ron didn’t like the way we were riding with  opposing wind and current, so we fooled around with two anchors to reposition the boat.  By the time we finished and we wound down our heads didn’t hit the pillows until midnight.  We waited for an outgoing current before raising the anchor this morning, then headed out the main shipping channel to the Gulf. 

 

 The Crystal River Power Plant loomed on the horizon all day  as we sailed south.  Auto has not been tasked with piloting the boat too often because of the multitude of crab traps but we had a good day with smooth sailing. 

 

 

 

This little palm tree covered island was an oasis in a sea of grass as we approached the entrance to the channel into Crystal River.

 

 

  It took forever to reach Pete’s Pier in Crystal River through the ten mile long winding channel.  About half way we realized there was a nice community with lovely waterfront homes and lots of boating activity. 

As soon as we tied up to the dock a group of good ole guys greeted us and weighed in on our trip.  One gentleman has done the loop back in 2002 so tales were spun and beers were passed. 

We had been receiving text messages from Chad about Morgan and Alicia’s swim events at a meet in Gainesville. 

We just couldn’t stand it—so Ron got a ride to Enterprise and rented a car.  Tomorrow morning we will be off to Gainesville to cheer for our girls. 

 

Cedar Key - Clam City



 

Trip Day:	256	Latitude:	29°07.56' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	53	Longitude:	083°02.11'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,616	Location:	Cedar Key – Atsena Otie Key Anchorage



The sun was just peeking over the horizon when we got    underway this morning.  The weather forecast called for 16-20 kts of wind this morning, but decreasing by ten o’clock.  The only saving factor was that the winds were aft of beam with following seas so the 2-3 foot waves were not a problem. Dolphin ran with us again—only a few feet from the boat.  I was at the helm and Ron was on the bow as they surfaced all around us.  At one point a couple of them jumped four feet in the air within five feet of me.  Is it possible these beautiful creatures have the capacity to understand how much job they bring to the human species? 

We yearned for a night on the hook so as we approached Cedar Key we angled off to anchor in the lee of Atsena Otie Key.  As we anchored, a bay tour boat took a group ashore and walked the beach stooping to collect shells.  So off we went in the dinghy on our own exploration tour. 

 

  

There was a path through dense underbrush which lead to ruins of the Faber Cedar Mill Site from the 1800s where cedar slats for pencils were produced.  We were surprised to learn this little island has a rich history dating back to the 1800s.  In 1839 the Army Supply Depot and Hospital was established on Atsena Otie. In 1842, at the end of the Second Seminole War a hurricane severely damaged the Army buildings.  Later the Suwannee Lumber Company built a sawmill for milling pine and in 1858 the Town of Atsena Otie was incorporated.  Census records reported 297 residents in 1860.  The Key was occupied by Union Army during the Civil War to cut off the Confederate supply port. By 1890 industry declined due to the growth of Tampa’s port, the railroad system, the depletion of pine and cedar trees and isolation of the community.  

Today, the clean waters around the keys create the perfect setting for Aquaculture where Cedar Key has farmed clams since the early 1990s.  The clam farmers own underwater land leases to release seed clams which grow quickly in the warm coastal waters.  Clams can be      harvested in 14-20 months and are shipped all over the country from Cedar Key.

Back in the dinghy we headed across the channel to go ashore on the mainland.  If Cedar Key is all about clams it was time to sample some of the local faire.  Indeed, the clams were good and we enjoyed a walk along the pier taking in the sights. 

With  daylight
 waning, we returned to our anchorage to capture the sunset—which did not disappoint us.  

 

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 28th

Scallops are to Steinhatchee as oysters are to   

Apalachicola and in the summer when it is scallop season this is a happening place.  But in the winter this is just a sleepy fishing village. Ron off-loaded the folding bikes so we could go exploring. 








After breakfast at Linda’s Café we were in search of Steinhatchee history.  At the mouth of the river, Deadman Bay was recorded on Spanish maps in the early 1500s.  Spanish Conquistador Panfilo de Narvaez came through the area in 1529 followed by Hernando de Soto ten years later.  In 1818 General Andrew Jackson passed through on his way to dispatch the Seminoles who were raiding white settlements.  The name Steinhatchee was derived from the Native American “esteem hatchee” meaning river (hatchee) of man (esteem).  Evidence of prehistoric man in the area dates back to 12,000 B.C.  Pirates were here from the 15th to 18th centuries, loggers in the 1800s, sponge  divers in the 1940s and 50s and commercial fishermen, shrimpers, and crabbers remain today.

This village was quaint and eclectic with some interesting choices of bay-side rentals for the summer season. 












  But we have to admit that all the locals we met went out of their way to be helpful and wanted to please.  I think we were the only transient boat in the marina so we were somewhat of a novelty.

Fiddler’s  Restaurant provided transportation  for dinner out—fresh grouper– nice!

 

Steinhatchee - A forgotten Fishing Village

Trip Day:	254	Latitude:	29°40.24' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	80	Longitude:	083°23.32'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,563	Location:	Steinhatchee, FL

 

 

Ron was the look-out on the bow while I steered out the channel from The C-Quarter Marina this morning before sunrise.  We knew we had a long day ahead of us on the open water so we had to get an early start.  Once clear of the channel and, therefore, not concerned about hitting channel markers, we were able to enjoy the developing sunrise. 

 

 

 

With temps in the forties, Ron was bundled up as he ate his nice hot oatmeal while steering. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 By mid-day the skies were clear and winds calm.  We had sailed all morning, but with diminishing winds we had to motor the remaining miles across the Gulf of Mexico.  We were 12—18 miles off shore in international waters with no land in sight—just 360 degrees of  horizon.  

 

 Our friend, Auto, did most of the steering since it was a straight-line compass setting.  Hand steering the last 15 miles, weaving and dodging crab traps in 25 feet of water—it was good to be back on the west coast of Florida.   As we approached the fishing village of Steinhatchee, we followed a couple of boats in the three-mile long channel through the shallow oyster bed waters along the coast.   After eleven hours on the water, we were ready for a safe harbor and since few looper boats bother to visit this area the marina staff was anxious to please. 

MONDAY, NOVEMBEER 26th

Nothing about this day was planned.  Our intention was a short run to Alligator Point, just to shorten the distance to cross the Gulf of Mexico to Steinhatchee.  About ten o’clock, Ron disconnected shore power and made ready to get underway.  One glitch .  .  . the engine would not start.  After spending an hour or so troubleshooting the cause and muttering “it has to be fuel or air”,  Ron gave in and called a   diesel mechanic.  Not bad if you thing about it; over 5,000 miles and this was the first mechanical issue that Ron could not handle. 

The mechanic didn’t make it to the boat until after three o’clock and by then the happy hour was in full swing at the docks.  So, the decision was made to stay the night and simply make a long day of it tomorrow.    A front is headed our way, so we will leave early to cross the Gulf to Steinhatchee. 

 

Carrabelle, FL - End of Gulf Intercoastal Waterway

Trip Day:	252	Latitude:	29°51.14' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	30	Longitude:	084°40.16'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,483	Location:	Carrabelle, FL

When we awakened this morning the shrimp boats were just returning from a night on the Gulf.  Casting off lines we headed out the channel, saying farewell to Apalachicola taking in the interesting sights and sounds along the working waterfront.

The run to Carrabelle was mostly in the Gulf  Intercoastal Waterway where we could see the outer islands of St George, St Vincent and Dog Island. 

We stepped back in time again as we walked the streets of the little fishing town of Carrabelle.  A man was smoking mullet on the dock when we arrived at the marina, but we opted for a pound of peel and eat shrimp to fulfill our afternoon snack appetites. 

Oddly, WWII soldiers trained at Camp Gordon Johnston to prepare the men for amphibious     landings.  A quarter of a million men were trained at CGJ before it closed in  1946.

 

Last Day in Apalachicola

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 24TH

We never tired of watching the wonder of nature all around us - taking joy in watching seagulls and pelicans in flight and dolphin gently rolling as they swim past the boat in this quaint little city. 

We continued our exploration of Apalachicola today since the winds this morning were blowing17-25, it was not a time to be in open water.  We met up with Mark, Joe, Donna and Jeff who were interested in the Maritime Museum that we had seen yesterday.

 

As we walked along Water Street we stopped to watch the       activity at one of the local oyster plants.  The oysters were tumbled in a cylinder under running water to clean the mud off the exterior first.  Then the   workers sorted out any bad or open oysters before they were shucked and the shells were dumped by conveyer belt. 

 

By noon the gang returned to their boats and Truant and Wish set out to cross to Dog Island since the winds were  predicted to  diminish throughout the day.  We stayed   behind to watch multiple football games, the most important being the FSU-FL game. The final stage of our adventure in  Apalachicola was to watch the workers shuck our oysters as we sampled them while watching the game.  It is amazing to eat such fresh seafood. 

The Gator win over the Noles was a sweeeeeeeeet end to the evening as we  returned to the boat to watch more football!

 

 

 

 

Exploring Apalachicola

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 23rd

Trip Day:	249	Latitude:	29°43.92' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	0	Longitude:	084°59.28'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,453	Location:	Apalachicola, FL    MM 351

Well, plans changed.  Unfortunately our trip to Tallahassee was cancelled since Kent woke up with flu symptoms.  As we had our morning  coffee we watched the seagulls playing in the wind along the canal which is lined by tall sea grass.  Not a bad place to think about how thankful we are for so many things in our lives.  Ron got the bikes out of the locker and we took off to explore Apalachicola.  First stop was the memorial to Vietnam Veterans.  .  . nicely done.

Facing the park was this beautiful old house with its two-story porches   decorated for the holidays.



Then we rode the downtown streets, stopping on Market St. to see the Raney House.  In the 1830s Apalachicola was a rapidly expanding port for the cotton industry.  David Raney, a native of      Virginia, was a prosperous merchant who built this home where he and his wife raised their eight children.  His son, George, practiced law in Apalachicola and later served as Attorney General and finally become Chief Justice of the Florida Supreme Court. 

 

 

 

Expansion of the textile industry brought increased demand for cotton from the plantations along the Apalachicola River.  Large ocean-going vessels unloaded goods into warehouses on the River, and in return loaded their cargo of cotton bound for mills in Europe and New England.  The little town of Apalachicola was the third largest port on the gulf until the 1850s.

Only a mechanical engineer such as Ron would know or care why Dr. John Gorrie was famous.  Dr. Gorrie came to Apalachicola in 1833 to practice medicine. 

 

During an outbreak of yellow fever, Gorrie developed a method for cooling the rooms of ill patients.  He invented a machine that produced ice using saltwater as a refrigerant.  He   received a Patent for mechanical         refrigeration in 1851, but died before realizing the far-reaching effects of his discovery.  So next summer when you flip on your AC, you should say thanks to Dr. John Gorrie from the little town of Apalachicola!

 

 

This town seems to be standing still in time.  The historic charm of houses and buildings from the late 1800s is     mirrored by a seafood industry little changed in nearly 100 years.  Oystermen still harvest their catch by hand with long handled tongs, return empty shells to the water to form artificial reefs making oyster nurseries.  We can vouch for the freshness of the oysters served by many   restaurants within walking distance from the oyster plants along Water Street.

 

 

 

 

Passing by the Gibson Inn, we rode our bikes out to the point to check out the bay.  We saw a sailboat clear the bridge from the river and as it pulled into the marina we realized it was Truant whom we haven’t seen since Mobile Bay. 

Shortly after Wish arrived and we all made plans to meet for dinner.   

On our way to Boss Oysters, we were pleasantly surprised to find the town alive with excitement.  All the stores and galleries were open, the sidewalks were lined with luminaries., and the Christmas lights were shining bright.   Our curiosity about this long line was satisfied when be recognized the celebrity at the end of the line.

 

 

 

 

 

Dinner was good with oysters all around.  We all walked back to Wish where we enjoyed wine, shared stories and friendship.  Thank you to Jeff, Donna, Mark and Jo for a great evening.  I still think Jo should write a book—she is a naturally funny girl. 

Tallahassee Turkey Day - Road Trip

Trip Day:	249	Latitude:	29°43.92' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	0	Longitude:	084°59.28'W	Locks Total:	108
Total Miles:	5,453	Location:	Apalachicola, FL    MM 351

Today we are off to Tallahassee for Thanksgiving dinner with our high school classmate, Kent, and a dozen of his family and friends.  His hospitality is welcomed even if there will be a gang of Noles in the group.  So we will be off line, disconnected, and on a road trip for a couple of days. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(P.S. - Happy Birthdy Kim!)