Nashville - Here We Come!

Trip Day:	202	Latitude:	36°40.93' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	42	Longitude:	087°54.29' W	Locks Total:	93
Total Miles:	4,204	Location:	Dry Creek, KY

We took our coffee and bowls of oatmeal down to the Betty L and had breakfast with Bob and Madeline. Actually Bob was composing his blog and Madeline was flitting about so we were the only ones who ate.  As we head up the Cumberland River today, the Betty L will head down the Tennessee River.  We will miss Bob and Madeline, but we are certain our paths will cross again.  As we passed, we fully appreciated their send-off dance on the bow of their boat. 

We took the lead today with Marc and Betty following on KatMan2 as we passed the Barkley Canal that links Barkley Lake with Kentucky Lake on the Tennessee River.  This canal was the northern end of the Land Between the Lakes (LBL) National Recreation Area.  It borders the Tennessee River and the Cumberland River for about 40 miles.  President Kennedy created the LBL in 1963 and this spine of land has campgrounds, picnic areas and 200 miles of trails where bald eagles, deer and turkey are abundant. 


The shoreline was thick with trees and some banks were steep on this wide-open section of waterway.  The morning sun was welcomed after yesterday’s clouds and best of all—no tugs or barges!

At MM 43 we passed by the     Kentucky State Penitentiary, called the “Castle on the Cumberland” by the locals.  Built in 1888 with stone from the local quarries, it was an impressive site.  Thirty Italian stonemasons worked on the project.

 

  An addition was built in the 1930s as a WPA project.  In front of the prison, but now underwater, lies a site of one on the last significant battles of the Civil War east of the Mississippi River.  The historic portion of Eddyville, Ky is also underwater.  When  the 157’ Barkley Dam was built, Old Eddyville was a casualty of the river impoundment and the formation of the 134-mile scenic lake. 

The vistas today were stunning with small islands scattered outside the channel, rivers and creeks branching off every couple of miles and the trees—they are a changing.  Homes were frequent along the banks and small fishing boats were everywhere.  Ron just might have to try wetting a lure. 

Making good time we decided to pass up the spot where we had planned to anchor and continue ten more miles to mile marker 73 at Dry Creek. On the north was Linton Recreation area with a swimming beach and launch ramp.

 

Reminder.  .  . spot us on Google Maps by clicking on Location: Linton, KY in the footer below.

Another Day at Green Turtle Bay

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28th - GREEN TURTLE BAY MARINA

Trip Day:	201	Latitude:	37°00.47' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	0	Longitude:	088°13.64' W	Locks Total:	93
Total Miles:	4,162	Location:	Grand Rivers, KY –Green Turtle Bay

There was rain on and off all through the night and this morning was very cloudy.   Today was a work day— Ron scrubbed the boat while and I went with the others in a marina courtesy van to seek out the Super Walmart for groceries.

 

  It was about a thirty mile ride into Paducah for shopping, but we did a little sightseeing at the Barkley Dam and in Smithland on our way.   General U.S. Grant occupied strategic points along the Ohio River and Smithfield was indeed strategic since it sat at the confluence of the two rivers.  Smithland served as a recruiting and training post especially for African American troops after 1964. The Federal Navy used the site as the headquarters for the gunboat division.

 The town of Smithland suffered from the long troop occupation and only a few historic buildings remain.  The Gower Inn, 1870, was host to many celebrities of that era, including Presidents James Polk and Zachary Taylor,  as well as Clara Barton, Charles Dickens and Henry Clay.

 

Grand Rivers is not much of a town, just a few gift shops and the local theater, but it gets kudos for the colorful    atmosphere. 

 This afternoon more boats have come into Green Turtle Bay Marina.  The girls on the Cal 27 arrived and we met Jessie’s mom who will be joining them for a few days.  Although concerned about the girls it was easy to see she is proud of them and their adventuresome spirits.

 We had a long chat with Joe and Tara, whom we met in Chicago aboard Seabatical.  We discovered that Joe graduated from Sarasota High in 1969 and they now live in Marietta and practice law in Atlanta, GA.  This is a bittersweet time for them because they only have one more month of their sabbatical remaining so their live-aboard life will be put on hold as they return to their careers.  Joe (a Gator) and Tara (a GA Bulldog) plan to attend the Florida vs Vanderbilt game in Nashville which we hope to do as well if we can work out the timing. 

After a light dinner at the Yacht Club we settled in with charts and guide books to plan our trip to Nashville.

Cumberland River - A Treat!

Trip Day:	200	Latitude:	37°00.47' N	Locks Today:	1
Miles Today:	31	Longitude:	088°13.64' W	Locks Total:	93
Total Miles:	4,162	Location:	Grand Rivers, KY –Green Turtle Bay

We were thankful to be tucked behind Cumberland Island last night.  As the sun was setting, squall line rolled through with strong winds, lightning, thunder and buckets of rain.  One good thing about the deluge, was it quieted the shotgun firing by the hunters in the nearby blinds. 

We were excited as we left the Ohio River and headed upstream on the Cumberland.  There was an immediate change in scenery with far less commercial traffic.

Although the river was more narrow, the distant hills and the hint of fall colors along the shoreline were welcomed sights. 

 To further enrich our day, we sighted perhaps half a dozen eagles as well as herons, other birds and turtles sunning on the rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we exited Barkley Lock, which was a 57’ lift, the waterway opened up to the expansive Lake Barkley. Homes and resorts along the shore meant we could once again go ashore and explore.  After the past six long travel days, Green Turtle Bay Marina was a welcomed sight.  Pulling into the fuel dock, Bernie, on Snow Cat, greeted us saying she had just had a massage at the on-site spa.  We soon learned about the outdoor and indoor pools, courtesy vans, restaurant pick up and return service, and of course showers and laundry. 

 

 

 

 

 

We took advantage of the shuttle and had dinner at Patti’s.  We were all too full to order from the selection of 17 desserts—perhaps tomorrow. 

 

 

 

Confluence of Cumberland River

Trip Day:	199	Latitude:	37°06.69' N	Locks Today:	1
Miles Today:	26	Longitude:	088°25.58' W	Locks Total:	92
Total Miles:	4,131	Location:	Confluence of Cumberland River

Waiting for Bob and Madeline to catch up to us this morning we were able to leisurely awaken and eat breakfast before lifting anchor at 9:30.  As we headed upstream on the Ohio the only traffic we encountered were the numerous tugs pushing their loads upstream and downstream.  As we approached our only lock of the day, there were three boats, whom we have met before, waiting for the lock.  This lock had dual chambers with a tug/barge rig in each chamber.  After just a twenty minute wait the lock tender called us in and took lines from our group of seven boats.  This was a rise in elevation for a change. 

We passed the towns of Metropolis and Paducah, but again no way to tie up for a visit - not even a dock at Harrah's Riverboat Casino.   The Mississippi and Ohio Rivers are all about commercial traffic with no regard for pleasure craft.  We have found the tug captains to be friendly and accommodating, however. 

By mid afternoon we had reached the confluence of the Cumberland River where there is a small island which allows anchorage for quite a few boats.  We lead the way in behind the    island, calling out depth readings to the following boats.  We had plenty of depth and swing room for all five boats in today’s fleet.   Happy to have a much needed short travel day—now if we could only order room service! 

 

Remember .  .  . you can spot us on Google Maps by clicking on Location: Island Anchorage in the footer below.

Ohio River - Welcome to Kentucky!

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25 - OHIO RIVER

Trip Day:	198	Latitude:	37°10.60' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	74	Longitude:	088°48.45' W	Locks Total:	91
Total Miles:	4,105	Location:	Ohio River – Kentucky Side MM 949

Awakened by the alarm we were moving slowly this morning, but it wasn’t quite as cold so that helped.  One by one we pulled up our anchors and followed each boat out into the big river.  A strong head wind was against us this morning, but with the current we are still making 9+ over ground.  Ron sighted a lone deer swimming across the river.

 

The river twisted and turned all morning at one point the compass heading read due north. 

Today was a  day of extremes;  extreme wind, extreme currents, and extremely long. 

By noon we approached mile marker zero on the Mississippi River which was our cue to turn left and head up the Ohio River, starting at mile marker 981.  Our boat speed dropped dramatically from 9+ to 4.5 since we were headed upstream on the Ohio. 

 This section was a staging area for barges with hundreds of barges along the shore with little tugs pushing  them into place for the larger tugs to push them down river.  Most of the rigs are now 20 or 24 barges linked together. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Each barge is equivalent to 58 semi-trucks so a 24 barge rig keeps a convoy of 1,392 trucks off the road.  We are told that on the Lower Mississippi a towboat typically pushes up to 40-60 barges.  This is the main reason most boaters don’t go all the way down the Mississippi to New Orleans. 

The original plan was to anchor at mile marker 964 the Olmstead Lock which is under construction, but we could not find a suitable spot to drop the hook.  The main problem was opposing wind and current had the river in whitecaps and we could find no protected area out of the channel.  We decided to go up the river, around a bend which would block the wind and look for a spot.  When we came to Lock and Dam 53, the current was so strong our speed was reduced to 2 kts, but only for a short time.  Bob and Madeline decided to hold back to be sure Jessie and Katie could make it through.  Good thing they did because they had to tow the girls through because they could not make headway against the strong current. 

 

 We finally anchored in the dark at mile marker 949 on the Kentucky side.  We were well out of the current and the water was calm but we know we will hear the barges as they run the river all night.  It was a long, long day—tomorrow needs to be a short day!

 

Rolling Down the River!

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 24th - WINGDAM ANCHORAGE

Trip Day:	197	Latitude:	37° 11.67 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	60	Longitude:	089°27.45 ' W	Locks Total:	91
Total Miles:	4,031	Location:	Wingdam at Mile Marker 42

While waiting for the fog to life this morning, we watched a flock of wild turkey along the shore.  Temps were in the forties again this morning with strong winds from the south.

 

Katie and Jessie had already shed their jackets by mid morning while we waited for a tug to maneuver. 

 

 

The Mississippi was fairly wide in this area, but in one narrow part of the channel there was more than a 4 kt current propelling us downbound at 11+ mph.

We passed by this man and his dog in a canoe headed south.  Is it possible he is doing the loop?

Since there are no marinas these long days are necessary to find what safe anchorages are available.  We would have loved to stop at the town of  Girardeau, MO, but it was  impossible since there was no marina or dock.

The bridge at Girardeau was a graceful structure with plenty of clearance, even if our mast was  vertical.  

At mile 48 we rounded up and took a look at Little River Diversion Channel as a possible anchorage, but determined there was no way four boats could get in, let alone turn around in the silted in river.  So downbound again we headed toward a wingdam that we had heard was deep enough for several boats. 

Having reached mile 42, KatMan2 served as scout boat to check the depths behind the rock wall.  After he had set his hook, we followed his path then Betty L came in after we were set.  The girls arrived after awhile completing the group.  Dinner was aboard our boat with cards after, but we made it an early night since we had decided to get    underway early tomorrow.  We passed the 4,000 mile mark—amazing!

 

 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23rd - WINGDAM ANCHORAGE

Trip Day:	196	Latitude:	37°50.62 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	57	Longitude:	089°43.85'W	Locks Total:	91
Total Miles:	3,971	Location:	Wingdam at Mile Marker 102

Good thing we tossed the sleeping bag over the bed last night since we awakened to 45 degree temperatures this morning.  Autumn has arrived on the Mississippi River! 

 

The low water was very evident this morning.  On both banks there are stone groins called Wingdams which were built to deflect the current toward the center of the river and prevent erosion of the banks.  Tucking behind or in between wingdams is supposed to allow safe anchorages, but most appeared to have shoaled. 

With a three knot current all day today we ran at 9.7 over ground most of the time.  Most of the tugs were pushing barges 4 wide and 6 long.  Watching them line up for bridges and maneuver around bends in the river was most interesting.  Some parts of the channel were skinny  today and several times we noticed channel markers on solid ground.

We passed some of the boats who left Hoppies earlier than us and were anchored at Kaskaskia River.  With no locks today and good current we decided to push further today and take our changes on  anchoring behind a wingdam.   Fern indicated the area was shoaled, but Madeline had talked to a boat ahead of us who assured her there was room for several boats. 

We passed a tug about a half hour before reaching the wingdam with our fingers crossed there would be enough room for four boats.  As we reached the red buoy for our turn, Ron was on the bow and I was at the helm. 

 The current was ripping and as I made my turn behind the rock dam we experienced a whirlpool effect.  I called out depths on the radio to the other boats and we went to the head of the pool and anchored in 16 ft of water. 
 Once completely behind the dam, it was very still and a great anchorage.  As soon as the hook was down, I noticed a bald eagle– a good omen!  We could hear the tugs churning down river, but felt no wake effects.

We took the dinghy ashore and explored before dinner and a Netflix movie.