Still On The Civil War Trail

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 30th - Near West Point, MS

Trip Day:	226	Latitude:	33°31.26' N	Locks Today:	3
Miles Today:	39	Longitude:	088°28.88'W	Locks Total:	103
Total Miles:	4,871	Location:	Waverley Recreation Anchorage   MM 337

At six-thirty the temperature in our cabin was 45 degrees when we ventured out from under the multiple layers of covers.  Since the thermostat read 40 in the salon area, Ron started the      generator and ran the heat for a little while.  By seven-thirty he started to engine to allow it to warm up before asking it to push us along on this cold morning.  I was at the helm when Ron went forward to handle the anchor, when I heard a thud. . . . seems his boat shoes didn’t have much traction on the ICE on the deck!   Now that is a first for us.

We travelled in a pack again today making the lock tenders happy to be working with a full lock.  I brought the boat into the locks and Ron braved the cold to lasso the bollard and hold the line for the 15-20 minutes in each lock. 

The sun brought some warmth to the day, but the highs only reached the low sixties.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were able to fly our jib between locks and enjoyed the river scenery—the yellow flowers along the bank were a pleasant surprise.  There was a mixture of industry and homes along the shores, but we only passed one barge.

By mid afternoon some boats had gone ahead pulling into a marina, but three of us anchored out near the Waverley Recreation Area in a nice secure spot behind an island.  As soon as we were secure at anchor we all lowered our dinghies and headed to the launch ramp.  A half mile up the hill we toured the Waverley Mansion which in 1852 was a cotton plantation owned by Col. Young with his wife and 10 children.

  It was self-sustaining community with gardens, orchards and livestock, but unfortunately after the last son died in 1913 the house was left vacant for 50 years.  Vandalized and opened to the weather, the  mansion was in horrible condition when Robert Snow of Philadelphia bought it and 40 acres in 1962.

 The restoration of this once magnificent home is an ongoing project.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were able to access six channels on our laptop through our antennae and saw the first news reports on Hurricane Sandy.  Our hearts go out to all the families in New Jersey and New York.  It is hard to imagine tunnels and subways filled with seawater in New York. 

 

Chilly Weather!

MONDAY, OCTOBER 29TH - HEADED SOUTH

Trip Day:	225	Latitude:	34°03.89' N	Locks Today:	4
Miles Today:	39	Longitude:	088°25.40'W	Locks Total:	100
Total Miles:	4,832	Location:	Glover Wilkins Lock  MM 376

We were a group of eight boats travelling together today, with the Betty L in the lead,  and locking through 4 locks together.  The first lock, Jamie L. Whitten Lock, had a drop of 84 feet which is the fourth highest in the nation.  The “after” photo of the Betty L is quite a change from the “before”.

We welcomed the sunny skies and the winds of 15-20 were tolerable because they were from behind.  Although holding the boat in place on the floating bollards in the locks was difficult with the wind whipping right into the lock. 

 

We only encountered a couple of tugs today, but commercial  enterprise was evident along the shores. 

 

We have seen many areas where cypress forest was flooded when the dams were built—it’s a rather eerie sight.

Most of the boats went into a marina by three o’clock, but we anchored out beside a lock with the Betty L.  By five o’clock we knew it was going to be a cold night so we showered early, snuggled up and watched a DVD since we had only one bar and no hotspot to post the blog.  By six it was dark—this time of year the nights are long!

M-I-S-S-I-S-S-I-P-P-I !

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28th - TENN-TOM

Trip Day:	224	Latitude:	34°33.75 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	35	Longitude:	088°18.47'W	Locks Total:	96
Total Miles:	4,793	Location:	Five Fingers Anchorage MM 415

Last night was in the forties, but we had our heat on and stayed comfortable in our little boat home. 

Being the slowest boat, we pulled out of the marina before the other six boats this morning.  Having a north wind we raised sails almost immediately.  We are now headed down the  Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, beginning at Mile Marker  450 and headed to Mobile Bay at Mile Marker 0.  The Tenn-Tom connects the Tennessee River to the Tombigbee River and is primarily a slack-water system and lacks the fierce currents of the Mississippi and other rivers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This cut from the Tennessee river to the Tombigbee river  was first proposed in 1760——to the king of France by the Marquis de Montcalm as a means to successfully settle this region of the South. From Knoxville to Mobile Bay 665 miles is saved by this route.  Numerous proposals and   studies were made before being authorized by Congress in 1971. After over twelve years and almost $2 billion dollars, the Waterway opened for commerce on January 10, 1985. The project is the largest civil works ever undertaken by the Corps of Engineers. It is 5 times longer and has a total lift 3.5 times greater than the Panama Canal.

It was a beautiful day and surprisingly the waterway took many turns revealing hillsides draped in fall colors.  By noon the wind was up and we were motor sailing over 8 knots with a top speed of 10 at one point.  As a matter of fact, the Betty L, Bucket List, Gemini Dream and Proud Lady never passed us. 

Three boats anchored with us in our little finger, while several others chose other fingers for a protected overnight anchorage.  A few boats decided to lock through and travel further for the day. 

 We invited Bob and Madeline over for bean, vegetable and sausage soup for dinner.  We are expecting temps in the thirties tonight, so we will bundle up under the sleeping bag, then flip a coin to see who gets up first in the morning to start the coffee.

 

No bars in our little cove.  .  . post tomorrow. 

 

Side Trip to SHILOH National Battlefield

Trip Day:	223	Latitude:	34°59.46 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	0	Longitude:	088°12.95'W	Locks Total:	96
Total Miles:	4,758	Location:	Grand Harbor Marina

Today was an amazing day of friendship and Civil War History!  The marina courtesy van was an eleven seater in which we managed to fit 12.  By nine o’clock we were on our way to visit Shiloh National Military Park.  The hour-long movie depicting the Battle of Shiloh was exceedingly well done and an excellent review of the toll the Civil War took on this    community and others like it across the South.  Confederate General Albert Johnston was tasked with holding Shiloh to protect the railroad hub at Corinth, MS.  General Ulysses S. Grant was steaming up the Tennessee River in 12 dozen steamboats carrying 48,000 Union troops. 

In April 1862 the   Confederate Army numbering 44,000 men, drove Grant’s forces back, however, General Johnston was among the casualties, which perhaps changed the course of the two-day battle.  On the second day, the Union was victorious due to the arrival of 40,000 additional troops lead by General Don Carlos Buell.  23,746 American lives were lost in the battle of Shiloh, more than any single battle in American history. 

The exhibits, monuments and historic markers at the National Park brought history alive and honored those who bravely fought and gave their lives. Artifacts, recovered on the expansive battlegrounds, were on display.  Most impressive was the personalization of the War with quotations from soldier’s personal journals. 






Additionally, photos such as this one of young John Clem who served as a drummer boy at Shiloh at 10 years of age; he retired from the army as a major general. 

 







 

In 1866 the US established the Shiloh National Cemetery on the battlefield.  Only 3 Confederate soldiers are buried in the cemetery;  all others remain interned in mass graves throughout the site.  The remains of the Union soldiers were disinterred from 156 locations on the battlefield, moved to the cemetery and identified when possible, although most are marked as unknown. 

 

On a much lighter note, our next stop was Hagy’s Catfish Hotel where the staff was decked out in Halloween costumes.  It was catfish and all the trimmings for the group. 

 

 We enjoyed our excursion to Shiloh and a great meal with friends.  Unfortunately, the evening ended on a sour note due to the Gators loss to the Georgia Bulldogs. 

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26TH - Grand Harbor Marina

 

Trip Day:	222	Latitude:	34°59.46 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	41	Longitude:	088°12.95'W	Locks Total:	96
Total Miles:	4,758	Location:	Grand Harbor Marina

Well, try as I might, I really cannot find nice things to say about our forty-one mile run today. The skies were gray with threatening clouds. It rain on and off most of the day and although we had plenty of wind we were dead into it most of the time. Today was simply getting from point A to point B. That being said, as soon as we pulled into Grand Harbor Marina Madeline and Bob were on the dock to take our lines.  There are about eight boats here we have met before. 

 

 Later in the afternoon we all went aboard Bucket List for a planning session.  As everyone   studied charts and various cruising guides the next ten days were mapped and charted.  But it was little three-year-old Beatriz who was the center of attention as she drew pictures for each of us and kept us entertained.  Jack, Denise and Beatriz are from Brazil and live aboard  50+ ft Jade.  Beatriz was on land for her birth, but since she has always lived aboard the boat. 

 We had soup and grilled sandwiches with Bob and Madeline while it rained outside.  We all have our heat on tonight as the temperatures are expected to drop into the low forties.  

 

Back to our Boat Home

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25th - Returned to Florence, AL

Taking advantage of the final day of the rental car, we drove into Florence and toured the Rosenbaum House which was designed and built by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1939-40.  This house, constructed of cypress, glass and brick, with flat roofs, over-hanging eaves, expanses of glass and flowing spaces is one of Wright’s Usonian design. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As expected, all spaces had clean, linear lines, clearstory windows, built in storage and furniture and, finally, glass doors and glass mitered corners on the side of the house facing the Tennessee River.  It truly was an amazing structure that brought the outside in and complimented it’s natural surroundings. 

A laundromat and grocery store were must stops before we returned to the boat.  We borrowed the marina courtesy car, returned the rental car then had dinner downtown before returning to our boat home. 

Tomorrow the trip count officially begins again with renewed vigor after our visit with family, friends and especially those great little people who know us as Poppy and Nunna. 

 

Florence - Alabama, not Italy

Trip Day:	220	Latitude:	34°47.21 ' N	Locks Today:	0
Miles Today:	31	Longitude:	087°40.44'W	Locks Total:	96
Total Miles:	4,717	Location:	Florence, AL  - Florence Harbor Marina

The stars were highly visible from our dark little cove last night—what a treat.  As we pulled out into the river this morning, the steam rising off the water was a nice effect.  As soon as we rounded the first bend there were some amazing homes/estates to behold—perhaps just summer lake homes. 

By ten  o’clock we were in Natchez Trace Trail area.  The 450-mile long parkway running from New Orleans to Nashville, is part of the National Park system.  It began as an Indian trail and was later used by traders, missionaries and soldiers in the 1700s.  Meriwether Lewis died while traveling on the trace in 1809.  We hope to take a drive on the parkway to enjoy the scenery by land.  The river is more narrow now since we have passed Pickwick Lake, but we were able to fly sails most of the day.  As we approached the town of Florence (named after   Florence, Italy) the bluffs on the south side were just amazing. 

We pulled into Florence Harbor Marina which was very busy with arriving boats.  There are at least 10 looper boats that we have met along the way.  Most boats will be headed to Joe Wheeler for the fall rendezvous, which we are not attending. 

Some notable personalities who called Florence home include Helen Keller and W.C. Handy, the trumpet player and songwriter who wrote Saint Louis Blues.  We took a ride through the city, using the marina courtesy car but will need to do more exploring.  We plan to visit the 1939 Rosenbaum House, the only Alabama structure designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. 

Quite by accident we discovered the campus of University of Northern Alabama, which was beautiful, near downtown amongst rolling hills. 

Tomorrow we are traveling home for a grandkid fix, leaving the boat at the marina.  So, travel days will be put on hold  until we return on the 25th. 

Welcome to Alabama!

Trip Day:	219	Latitude:	34°54.24 ' N	Locks Today:	1
Miles Today:	55	Longitude:	088°06.04'W	Locks Total:	96
Total Miles:	4,686	Location:	Waterloo,  AL on Pickwick Lake

We quietly raised anchor and slowly made our way around Snow Cat to get an early start for another long travel day.  It was cool this morning requiring jackets to start the day.  There was a steam mist hanging low over the water, but the sun gave promise of an early warming.  No boat traffic was to be seen until three hours later when Snow Cat passed us. 

The last couple days we have seen patches of Cyprus trees which surprised us - we didn't realize they grew this far north.

 

 The current was very strong this morning and at times we ran less than 4 mph over ground although the boat speed was 6.6 mph. The winds were a little stronger today, but as soon as we set a sail the river would make a turn and the wind would be on our nose.  We gave up on the sails and simply powered.  The closer we got to Pickwick Dam, the stronger the current we encountered. After a 30 minute wait we passed through the Pickwick Landing Lock where the rise of 55 ft brought us into Pickwick Lake where everything changed. 

 The wide open lake with high tree-covered shores was a showcase of  beautiful homes.  The open water allowed for clean air and we hoisted the sails.  Running at 7 mph, with no current, made up for lost time this morning and perked us up as well. 

 

The scenery was lovely and  every few miles there were little coves for anchorages just wide enough for one or two boats.  We are near Waterloo, AL which is one of the oldest towns having been settled in 1832. General Sherman’s headquarters was in   Waterloo as he marched through the south.  Most of the town was moved when the Pickwick Dam was built in the early 1930s. Today Waterloo is a quiet community with a population of about 300. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found our own little cove and dropped anchor right in the middle in ten feet of water.  Within the hour Ron had fired up the grill and we started dinner. 

MONDAY, OCTOBER 15th - SWALLOW BLUFF ISLAND
Up early today to leave at 7:00 A.M. Not a bad start with the temperature in the mid 50’s and the sun visible. Oops, after about 20 minutes we ran into a wall of fog on the river. With no place to stop, we slow down to half speed and Ron went to the bow as lookout. I steered by the chart plotter and compass, literally unable to see the shoreline 100 feet away.  The biggest concern would be a tug and tow coming downbound. At times it was hard to see Ron on the bow—-pretty thick stuff. The fog lasted a good hour before finally burning off.

 We flew a sail when possible, but the winds were too light to make much difference.  The current is still against us, making our travel speed less than 6 mph. The scenery ranged from high limestone bluffs, farmland, cows and goats today.  The colors are vivid and so appreciated by these two Floridians.

Around midday we were hailed on the radio by Snow Cat, the 34’ PDQ power cat we first met back at the spring rendezvous in Norfolk. Don and Bernie passed us doing about 14 knots and steamed on ahead. After a short conversation, we  realize our destinations today were the same, so we agreed to get together later at the recommended anchorage at Swallow Bluff. Watching the sunset with friends, drinks, and appetizers can’t be beat. A great ending to a long day.

 

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14th - WEATHER DAY!

A weather front passed through yesterday late afternoon and evening, bringing lots of rain. It is still cloudy and blustery as we get up, so we decide to wait until it passes.  The weather channel showed a major storm line from Alabama to the Great Lakes moving east with a cold front behind it.  By late morning, the rain had stopped, but the winds are still up, from the south—just the  direction we are headed.  The wind predictions were for 15-20 with stronger gusts. So this was declared a weather day.

 

 

 

 

  The day was bad enough that the Marina personnel call it a day at 1:00 PM. No locals or fishermen were showing up today to fight the whitecaps on the river. We spend a very  quiet afternoon reading and watching a little TV, then took a walk to stretch our legs. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The best part of the day was a Skype call with five of the grandkids—that put a smile on or faces!