WASHINGTON - NORTH CAROLINA THAT IS!

Trip Day:             44        Latitude:           35°32.44' N                         Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:      15        Longitude:     077°03.36' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,094       Location:       Washington, NC  / City Docks (free)

Washington, NC is very boat friendly offering 48 hour free dockage along a totally renovated waterfront.  This port once played a major role in exports from the colonies with major ships from England, the Caribbean and the northern colonies making their way up the Pamlico River to Haven’s Wharf.  The area was settled in 1690 and renamed in honor of General George Washington in 1776 (the first city to be named after him).  By 1904 the Atlantic Coastline Railroad extended its lines to Washington allowing goods to be brought to the port by rail.  

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the North Carolina Estuarium with over 200 exhibits, artifacts, aquariums, and video presentations. This sculpture in the lobby was incredible!

This far up the Pamlico River the water is  almost entirely fresh and is not tidal.  Fresh water fish, ducks, geese and turtles abound.

OFF THE ICW - BATH, NORTH CAROLINA

Trip Day:              43       Latitude:           35°28.59' N                         Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:      20        Longitude:     076°48.92' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,079       Location:       Bath, NC  / Bath State Docks (free)         

 

An early departure was in order to cross the    Pamlico River before the winds grew strong.  Crossing the   Pamlico one can only see water and the horizon looking east. 

You get a feel for the rough waters in this photo of a crab boat.

 

Bath is the oldest town in North Carolina, founded in 1696, and  was the first port of   entry into North Carolina.  It is reported that Edward Teach, aka Blackbeard, was a part-time resident. In 1711 a severe draught and an  outbreak of Yellow Fever decimated the town.

Palmer-Marsh House 1744

Home of the Surveyor General and Customs Port Collector for ships entering the harbor.

We are staying the night at the Bath State Docks which are free, but no utilities.

A couple on a Tayana 37  arrived this afternoon.  We  invited them aboard for a cold beer with chips and salsa.  They have been cruising for five years and just came north from the Bahamas.  We took advantage of their many years of experience as they shared information and stories. 

HIGH WINDS - SNUGGLED IN PAMLICO RIVER

Trip Day:               42       Latitude:          35°16.91' N                        Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:       19      Longitude:     076°37.70' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,059      Location:      Pamlico River  / Campbell Creek Anchorage   

  

We got underway this morning, after sitting at   anchor all day Saturday just reading and  enjoying the peace.  The wind was blowing pretty strong for being so early and by 11:00 we were registering 20 knots with higher gusts. 

Seeing a big tug approaching our stern was a little unnerving, but he passed us with no problem.

  

We intended to cross Pamlico River which is a very open body of water, but we were barely into it when the winds were at 30 knots.  We turned around and headed back into a small creek to find a quiet anchorage for the night. 

After anchoring, Ron had his rod in the holder with high hopes.  We got very excited when we heard the line going out fast and we said “fish for dinner!”                

 

Unfortunately our fish had wings, it was a pretty good size ray and it took a while to release it.

  

Since it is a slow news/travel report, perhaps it is appropriate to share a photo that our high school friend, Kent Putnam, emailed last week.   This photo was taken in Sarasota  in 1962 - 50 years ago this month.  Kent is front right and  Ron is at the stern of his dad’s boat.   The group camped on this island for two nights. Ron could not remember exactly what type of beverage was packed in the cooler.  The boys seem quite proud of their hats, don’t they!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we finished today’s blog, we got a Skype call from our grandkids. It was good to see and hear them!!  Good luck on FCAT testing tomorrow Alicia and Morgan.  Emma, your smile sure is shiny! 

UNDERWAY AGAIN - PAMLICO SOUND HERE WE COME!

Trip Day:            40         Latitude:         35°05.68' N                        Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:      32         Longitude:     076°36.57' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,040        Location:      Oriental, NC  / Broad Creek Anchorage 

It is time to move on . . . good weather is predicted for tomorrow so we will once again set sail to cross the Pamlico Sound and head north. We have eaten way too much good food and four nights in a marina play havoc on the budget!                                                              

We survived the frost and stayed nice and cozy in our cabin sleeping under a quilt and sleeping bag.  We stepped out on deck this morning because we could hear the dolphins coming up for breaths.  They were just a few yards from the boat as they fed.

   

This is Ron sitting on the boom, talking to Morgan who called for help with her algebra homework.  She could have asked for help at home, but she and Poppy have a thing about math assistance—and that makes Poppy happy!

After miles of narrow rivers, cuts, and canals, this is our view as we entered Pamlico Sound; nothing but water and horizon. 

Winds were light and it was an easy day.  We only traveled 6 hours and dropped anchor early in a small cove off Broad Creek.  We were ready to be in a peaceful anchorage away from marinas and traffic.

We are assuming this is a hunting blind—we could be in trouble early tomorrow morning!

BEAUFORT, NC

Trip Day:             39        Latitude:         34°43.07' N                          Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:        0        Longitude:     076°42.34' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,008       Location:      Morehead City, NC  / Portside Marina

We spent the morning in Beaufort (pronounced “bo-fort” unlike “bue-fort” in South Carolina.  Beaufort, NC, named after Sir Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort, is the third-oldest town in North Carolina, Surveyed in 1713 and incorporated in 1722.  The Old Burying Ground, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was deeded to the town in 1731 by Nathaniel    Taylor.  The weathered tombstones chronicle Beaufort’s heritage where Confederate soldiers, Union soldiers and freed slaves all rest together. 

We visited the Maritime Museum which was rich in boating history and shipbuilding in this  region.  One of the exhibits pointed out 2,000 known wrecks in the ‘Graveyard of the    Atlantic” due to shallow waters and constant shoaling. 

Not sure Jean needed to have these facts emphasized since we are about to cross Pamlico Sound.

The Fresnel lens is highly efficient at concentrating light.  This lens is from a lighthouse off Maryland Point in the Potomac and was in service from 1892 until 1960s. 

An unexpected treat at the museum was a film about the 1996 archaeological discovery of QUEEN ANNE'S REVENGE, Blackbeard’s flagship, which grounded off Beaufort Inlet 300 years ago.  There were artifacts on display and two of the participating divers keep their boat at the Portside Marina where we are docked. 

Carbon dating, cannons and artifacts seem to indicate this wreck is the Queen Anne’s Revenge, but final identification has not been validated to date.  The excavation is still active with new artifacts being discovered each dive season. 

 You could see Ron’s eyes light up when we entered this wooden boat-building shop.  If only he could bring a couple of the grandkids to a pram building workshop!

It is time to move on . . . good weather is predicted for tomorrow so we will once again set sail to cross the Pamlico Sound and head north. We have eaten way too much good food and four nights in a marina play havoc on the budget!

NEW BERN - STRONG WINDS HAVE NOT STOPPED US!

Trip Day:              38       Latitude:         34°43.07' N                        Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:        0        Longitude:     076°42.34' W                      Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,008       Location:     Morehead City, NC  / Portside Marina      

 

Morehead City will be our home base for a couple of days.  Last night the winds were 25-30 with 40 knot gusts.  The high today was in the 60s and tonight will be in the mid 40s so being at Portside Marina with the comfort of electric heat and safe dockage seems prudent.  We have not let the weather deter our quest for knowledge, however, thanks to a rental car we have been on the go all day!

 Lots of history .  .  . feel free to skip and just look at the photos!

Today we visited New Bern which is surrounded by water, but it is a river town, not a coastal city.  New Bern was settled in 1710 by Baron von Graffenreid and by the mid-1700s was a vital port for the colonies where pitch, tar and turpentine (all important for shipbuilding) were shipped to England.

Tryon Palace was built between 1767 and 1770 for the first Royal Governor, William Tryon .  Architect John Hawks designed the Palace in the Georgian style of symmetry.   In 1774 the First Provincial Congress convened in New Bern, the first assembly in the colonies in defiance of British orders.  New Bern was the first capital of North Carolina and it was in this palace that George Washington danced when he visited the southern states.

Imagine the pampered horses in these stables.

A matching building opposite housed the 

Palace kitchen.

 

The original Palace was destroyed by fire in 1798 with only the stables still standing.  In 1944 Maude Moore Latham led a movement to rebuild the Palace based on the original architectural plans and inventory documentation.  The formal English gardens were amazing!

John Wright Stanly built this house  between 1779 and 1783, although it has been moved from its original site the home is fully intact and original. 

When President  George Washington

visited New Bern in 1791, he stayed in this home for two nights.

Son, Edward Stanly who was born here in 1810,  accepted the post of military governor from President Lincoln in 1862.

 

In 1800 acreage was set aside for Cedar Grove Cemetery  because the Episcopal Church cemetery was completely filled by those who died during the yellow fever epidemic in 1798-99.  The marl perimeter wall and gates enclose one of the best viewings of nineteenth century gravestones and markers.

 

We really enjoyed New Bern .  .  . and by the way, in 1898 Caleb Bradham invented Brad's Drink which later became known as Pepsi Cola.

Another side note - we returned to Floyd's tonight for seafood dishes and we said yes to their special dessert, Bailey's Chocolate Mouse Cake!  Good thing we walked a lot today.

MOREHEAD CITY - FORT MACON

Trip Day:              37         Latitude:          34°43.07' N                        Locks Today:    0

Miles Today:        0        Longitude:     076°42.34' W                        Locks Total:     6

Total Miles:    1,008       Location:     Morehead City, NC  / Portside Marina



Today we began our visit to Morehead City by touring Fort Macon.  Fort Macon ,which guards the entrance to Beaufort Harbor, was built between 1826 and 1834. Local secessionist militia forces seized the fort on April 14, 1861 at the outbreak of the Civil War. On April 25, 1862, the Union forces and gunboats bombarded Fort Macon for eleven hours before the Confederates ran up the white flag and formally surrendered the fort.

Fort Macon was used in the War Between the States, the Spanish American war and World War II. In World War II the military used the fort to guard against German U2 submarine attacks.

View of the entrance to the harbor from the Cidital of the fort which had rows of cannons around the perimeter. 

The fort layed abandoned for decades before the State took posession in the 1920s and undertook a major restoration.  The local preservationists have done an amazing job of making the fort come alive for a visitor.



Just a peek at the dunes and the Atlantic.








We had an amazing dinner at Floyd's; fried green tomatoes with grilled shrimp, tomato basil crab bisque, delicately fried oysters, blue cheese grits, prime rib, good wine . Dessert will have to wait for another night.

The highlight of our day has been the people we have met.  The owner of Porside Marina, Denard, has been so helpful and full of information.  His great-grandfather was a Confederate soldier at Fort Macon during the eleven hour battle.  It only takes a few minutes talking to Denard and his wife to feel like family!  Another sailor at the marina, Webb, drove Ron to West Marine for parts.

Tonight while we had dinner at Floyd's we met a group of people from New York and New Jersey.  We told them about our adventure and they shared stories of New York and convinced us that Pecan Pie is high in protein and, therefore, should be consumed often.